Livery Collars

Lancastrian Esses Collar

On 12 Sep 1368 Blanche Plantagenet Duchess Lancaster 1345-1368 (23) died at Tutbury Castle. Her last words were said to be "Souveyne vous de moi" ("Don't forget me") the 'S' of which was subsequently represented on the Lancastrian Esses Collar. She was buried at Old St Paul's Cathedral.

On 25 Feb 1387 John Marmion 1343-1387 (44) died in Spain. In 1400 Elizabeth St Quentin -1400 died.
Monument in St Nicholas Church, West Tanfield, North Yorkshire. Camail and Jupon Period. Lancastrian Esses Collar. Hip Belt. Feathered Crest on Great Helm His bascinet has decorated edges with the camail appearig to attach inside the bascinet. Decorated flat band. She wearing a unusual headress which appears to be a cross between Gabled Headress and Bongrace. Her dress long with a Low Rounded Neckline and appears to be decoated with an armorial: vair at the top, chevrons at the bottom, which may be or a variation of.

In 1399 William Mainwaring 1345-1399 (54) died. He was buried at St Mary's Church, Acton. Monument Early Plate Bascinet and Gorget Period. Lancastrian Esses Collar. Ass's Head Crest.

On 31 Aug 1401 Nicholas III Longford 1351-1401 (50) died at Shrewsbury. St Chad's Church, Longford. Monument to Nicholas III Longford 1351-1401 (50). Lancastrian Esses Collar. Camail and Jupon Period. Curious helm crest which at first sight appears to be surmounted with three mushrooms but on closer inspection is a Feathered Crest; the Longford Crest.

After 21 Jul 1403 Thomas Wendesley 1344-1403 was buried at All Saint's Church, Bakewell. Camail and Jupon Period armour. Orle with IHC NASARE Lettering. His Coat of Arms just visible. Lancastrian Esses Collar.

In 1406 John Curzon -1406 died. Monument in All Saints Church, Kedleston. Fluted Period. Lancastrian Esses Collar. Reset in tomb Recess with depressed Crocketed and pinnacled Ogee Arch, with shields above.

After 1423. St John the Baptist Church, Tideswell. Thurstan de Bower -1423 and Margaret. Early Plate Bascinet and Gorget Period. Lancastrian Esses Collar. Basinet with decorated orle and writing. She wearing a Crespine Headress.

On 26 Feb 1432 Ralph Longford 1400-1432 (31) died. St Chad's Church, Longford. Monument to Ralph Longford 1400-1432 (31). Early Plate Bascinet and Gorget Period. Lancastrian Esses Collar. Hip Belt.

North Transept, Hereford Cathedral. Richard Delamere died 1435, and Isabel his wife, died 1421, figure of man in plate armour, feet on lion, figure of lady in horned head-dress and SS collar, two dogs at feet, double canopy with cinque-foiled and sub-cusped arches and crocketted ogee gables and upper cornice, parts of standards and pinnacles missing, foot inscription and three shields-of-arms (a) Delamere, (b) the same impaling Acton.

In 1436 John Greystoke 4th Baron Greystoke 1389-1436 (47) died. He was buried at St Andrew's Church, Greystoke. His son Ralph Greystoke 5th Baron Greystoke 1414-1487 (22) succeeded 5th Baron Greystoke. Monument in St Andrew's Church, Greystoke. Fluted Period. His Pauldrons (shoulder plates), are unusual in their style. His arms are fully encased in plate with a Couter (or coude) protecting the elbow joint. Fine detail of the straps that held the armour in place may be seen on the underarms. A gorget, or neck armour, has replaced the camail. His head is, very unusually, bare as is his face, his hair cut in the style so typical of portraits of Henry V. Gardner1 states It is a remarkable fact that before 1440 the bare-headed warrior is almost unknown, while after 1455 the helmeted knight is almost equally rare. This may suggest the effigy was made somewhat After John's death or, possibly, that the effigy has been incorrectly assigned. His head rests on the decorated tournament helm. He wears the Lancastrian Esses Collar. John had supported the usurpation of Richard II by Henry IV in the 1390s; staunch Lancastrians. John had married, in 1407, Elizabeth Ferrers, daughter of Joan Beaufort, daughter of John of Gaunt, son of King Edward III. Two sword belts: diagonal (bawdric) and horizontal. The jupon, beneath the waist has been replaced by a fauld; horizontal strips of metal that wrap around.

On 07 Jun 1438 John Cockayne 1370-1438 (68) died at Pooley. He was buried at St Oswalds Church, Ashbourne. Early Plate Bascinet and Gorget Period. Lancastrian Esses Collar. Cockerel Crest (most of which is missing). Butterfly Headress.

On 01 Oct 1440 William Rhyther 1379-1440 (61) died at Harewood, West Yorkshire. All Saints Church, Harewood, West Yorkshire. Monument to William Rhyther 1379-1440 (61) and Sybil Aldeburgh 1363-1439. Early Plate Bascinet and Gorget Period. Lancastrian Esses Collar. Crespine Headress.

After 06 Jun 1441 William Phelip 6th Baron Bardolf 1383-1441 was buried at St Mary's Church, Dennington. Monument to William Phelip 6th Baron Bardolf 1383-1441 and Joan Bardolf 6th Baroness Bardolf 1390-1447. Early Plate Bascinet and Gorget Period. Feathered Crest. Detail of the Wyvern on which her feet rest. Detail of Eagle, possibly hawk, on which his feet rest. Crespine Headress covering her hair. He wearing a bascinet with orle with IHC lettering. Both wearing a Lancastrian Esses Collar. Leg Garter below the left knee.

Around 1456 John Curzon 1380-1456 (76) died. Monument in All Saints Church, Kedleston to John Curzon 1380-1456 (76) and Joan Bagot. Fluted Period. Eagle Crest. Lancastrian Esses Collar.

On 12 Mar 1487 William Gascoigne 1452-1487 (35) died at Gawthorpe Hall, Harewood, West Yorkshire. All Saints Church, Harewood, West Yorkshire. Monument to William Gascoigne 1452-1487 (35) and Margaret Percy 1447-. Fluted Period. Alabaster chest tomb with a fine array of weepers, possibly their children although too many, women one side, nine men the other, one of which appears with angels wings, possible children and spouses. He wearing a variation of the Lancastrian Esses Collar collar being SOSOS. Clean shaved, no bascinet, his head resting on a helm with bulls head crest. His armour plate over which there appears to be, unusually for the period, a tabard.  The left hand side of his face appears disfigured. Possibly a war wound. She wearing the widow's barbe. Note. Gardner describes this. Monument as being to Sir John Nevill of Womersley, died 1482.

On 12 Oct 1516 Isabel Neville 1457-1516 (59) died.
In 1526 William Smythe 1480-1526 (46) died.
Before 29 Nov 1529 Anne Staunton -1529 died
Monument in St Peter's Church, Elford. Tudor Period. Lancastrian Esses Collar. Dog(s) chewing at her dress. Gabled Headress with Lappets. Probably Harpur and Moorecock of Burton on Trent.

In 1528 Henry Willoughby 1451-1528 (77) was buried at St Leonard's Church, Wollaton. A fine chest tomb. Monument in sandstone (rather than alabaster), somewhat damaged, with his four wives, two each side.Lancastrian Esses Collar somehwat unusual given the 1528 date of his death.Sphinx Crest. Cadaver Underneath. Henry Willoughby's Arms including Willoughby top left hand corner (Water Bougets from Willoughy family original name Bugge).

Around 10 Nov 1530 Randle Brereton of Malpas 1480-1530 (50) died. he was buried in St Oswald's Church, Malpas. Monument to Randle Brereton of Malpas 1480-1530 (50) and Eleanor Dutton 1484-1522. Alabaster. Tudor Period. Lancastrian Esses Collar. Dogs Head Crest. Dog(s) chewing at her dress. Possibly Harpur and Moorecock of Burton on Trent.

On 14 Feb 1531 John Blount 1469-1531 (62) died at Kinlet, Cleobury Mortimer. He was buried at Church of St John The Baptist, Kinlet, Cleobury Mortimer.
Monument to John Blount 1469-1531 (62) and Catherine Peshall -1540. Tudor Period. Lancastrian Esses Collar. Long bobbed hair, no facial hair. Bare hands; gauntlets at the right side of the legs. She wearing a short Gabled Headress. Chest tomb somewhat of the wrong period ie Renaissance suggesting this may be a replacement effigy, or re-used. Probably Richard Parker of Burton on Trent.

On 08 Dec 1534 Richard Knightley 1455-1534 (79) died in Fawsley. He was buried in St Mary's Church, Fawsley.
Monument to sculpted by Richard Parker of Burton on Trent in St Mary's Church, Fawsley. Gabled Headress. Lancastrian Esses Collar.

On 14 Aug 1539 Ralph Sacheverell 1506-1539 (33) died at Ratcliffe on Soar. He was buried at Holy Trinity Church, Ratcliffe on Soar.
On 27 Jun 1538 Cecilia Durance 1508-1538 died. She was buried at Holy Trinity Church, Ratcliffe on Soar.
Decorated Gabled Headress. Lancastrian Esses Collar with Tudor Rose Pendant. Possibly second hand monuments.

After 1554. St Mary the Virgin Church, North Aston. Believed to be a. Monument to John Anne -1554 but the armour would suggest it is around a hundred years or so earlier than his death in 1554. Finely carved in alabaster. Early Plate Bascinet and Gorget Period. Lancastrian Esses Collar. Lion Pendant. Fine Bedesmen on the chest. Dog(s) chewing at her dress. Possibly Harpur and Moorecock of Burton on Trent.

The Lancastrian Esses Collar first appears in the later 14th Century. Its is believed to represent the last words of his wife Blanche Plantagenet Duchess Lancaster 1345-1368 "Souveyne vous de moi" or "Don't forget me". The earliest example being seen on the tomb of John Swynford in Spratton, Northamptonshire, dated to 1368.

Monument to Thomas Fitzwilliam 1448-1495 and Lucy Neville 1468-1534 in St Mary's Church, Tickhill, Doncaster. Originally located in Tickhill Friary the tomb was moved to St Mary's Church at the Dissolution in 1538. Restored in 2012. The alabaster chest tomb believed to be one of the earliest examples of Italianate carving. The Lancastrian Esses Collar highly unusual; unique even but then so is the armour.

Lancastrian Esses and Inter-twined Knots Collar

On 22 Mar 1426 Richard Redman Master of the Horse 1350-1426 (76) died at Harewood Castle, Harewood, West Yorkshire. He was buried at Church of the Black Friars, York. Monument to Richard Redman Master of the Horse 1350-1426 (76) and Elizabeth Aldeburgh 1362-1417. Early Plate Bascinet and Gorget Period. Lancastrian Esses and Inter-twined Knots Collar. Horses Head Crest. Elaborate Crespine Headress.

Yorkist Suns and Roses Collar

Around 1465 William Gascoigne 1409-1465 (56) died at Gawthorpe Hall, Harewood, West Yorkshire. All Saints Church, Harewood, West Yorkshire. Monument to William Gascoigne 1409-1465 (56) and Margaret Clarell. Fluted Period. Yorkist Suns and Roses Collar. His bare head, with finely detailed hair, no facial hair, rests on an unusual helm which appears to be a Maiden's Face, with an orle. Below the waist faulds and tasses under which mail may be seen. Both rest on a chest tomb with finely detailed weepers on each side. She, on his right, with a Widow's Barbe (from the French for beard) drawn up to her chin at the finely carved end of her dress two dogs, one pulling at the folds Dog(s) chewing at her dress.

On 19 Nov 1473 Nicholas Fitzherbert 1400-1473 (73) died at Norbury. He was buried at Church of St Barlok, Norbury. Fluted Period. Fine set of weepers. Two wives shown on one end. Clenched Fist Crest usually left-handed; probably a mistake by the sculptor. Yorkist Suns and Roses Collar. Feet resting on a Lion.

On 12 Oct 1477 Humphrey Blount 1421-1477 (56) died at Kinlet, Cleobury Mortimer. He was buried in the Church of St John The Baptist, Kinlet, Cleobury Mortimer.
Monument to Humphrey Blount 1421-1477 (56) and Elizabeth Winnington. Fluted Period. He wearing a Yorkist Suns and Roses Collar. She wearing a fine Butterfly Headress with large flap as also detailed in the weepers. Finely made folds at the foot of her dress with Dog(s) chewing at her dress.

On 02 Mar 1484 Ralph Fitzherbert 1428-1484 (56) died at Norbury. He was buried at Church of St Barlok, Norbury.
On 20 Oct 1490 Elizabeth Marshall 1437-1490 (53) died. She was buried at Church of St Barlok, Norbury.
Monument to Ralph and Elizabeth. Finely made in Chellaston alabaster of the Fluted Period. His effigy notable for being the only remaining with the Yorkist Boar Pendant (boar of Richard III) on his Yorkist Suns and Roses Collar. Bobbed hair with finely detailed ringlets. No facial hair. The chest finely made with weepers on the three extant sides. On one side five single men (a knight, a monk, two merchants and one unknown), and one couple. On the other side women, four single, two duos. Ralph and Elizabeth had twelve children, six male, six female so probable the weepers represent their children, possibly with spouses, possibly with offspring since in the two females duos there is a noticeable difference in height. Tudor Livery Collar. Fine Sabbatons, the armoured feet, with spurs. Note the Bedesman under the right foot. Unlikely the sculptor had ever seen a lion. Feet resting on a Lion. The Fitzherbert Clenched Fist Crest. A finely carved Butterfly Headress. A finely carved collar with Mary and baby Jesus pendant. A Bedesman looking somewhat bored. Excellent weepers on all sides, probably their issue, possibly with grandchildren, on the longer sides since they had six boys and six girls. Possibly Harpur and Moorecock of Burton on Trent.

Around 1488 Thomas Cockayne 1451-1488 (37) was killed in a fight with Thomas Burdett at Polsworth. He was buried at All Saints Church, Youlgreave. A curious. Monument insofar as it half-life sized apparently as a result of his dying before his father. Killed in a fight, or duel, with his in-law Thomas Burdett over inheritance or dower. Fluted Period. Yorkist Suns and Roses Collar. Cockayne Cockerel Crest.

In 1499 Henry Pierrepoint 1430-1499 (69) died. Fluted Period. Finely carved. Lots of rings on fingers. Yorkist Suns and Roses Collar. Tomb chest possibly not original. Church of St Edmund, Holme Pierrepoint.

Tudor Livery Collar

On 02 Mar 1484 Ralph Fitzherbert 1428-1484 (56) died at Norbury. He was buried at Church of St Barlok, Norbury.
On 20 Oct 1490 Elizabeth Marshall 1437-1490 (53) died. She was buried at Church of St Barlok, Norbury.
Monument to Ralph and Elizabeth. Finely made in Chellaston alabaster of the Fluted Period. His effigy notable for being the only remaining with the Yorkist Boar Pendant (boar of Richard III) on his Yorkist Suns and Roses Collar. Bobbed hair with finely detailed ringlets. No facial hair. The chest finely made with weepers on the three extant sides. On one side five single men (a knight, a monk, two merchants and one unknown), and one couple. On the other side women, four single, two duos. Ralph and Elizabeth had twelve children, six male, six female so probable the weepers represent their children, possibly with spouses, possibly with offspring since in the two females duos there is a noticeable difference in height. Tudor Livery Collar. Fine Sabbatons, the armoured feet, with spurs. Note the Bedesman under the right foot. Unlikely the sculptor had ever seen a lion. Feet resting on a Lion. The Fitzherbert Clenched Fist Crest. A finely carved Butterfly Headress. A finely carved collar with Mary and baby Jesus pendant. A Bedesman looking somewhat bored. Excellent weepers on all sides, probably their issue, possibly with grandchildren, on the longer sides since they had six boys and six girls. Possibly Harpur and Moorecock of Burton on Trent.

After 10 May 1490 Alice Southill 1460-1490 was buried at Church of St Peter and St Paul, Exton. After 05 Nov 1524 John Harrington 1480-1524 was buried with his wife. Their. Monument Tudor Period. Dogs Head Crest. Bedesman and Lion at his feet.Tudor Livery Collar. Dog(s) chewing at her dress. Probably Harpur and Moorecock of Burton on Trent.

On 27 Sep 1510 Edward Redman Lord Harewood 1455-1510 (55) died. All Saints Church, Harewood, West Yorkshire. Monument to Edward Redman Lord Harewood 1455-1510 (55) and Elizabeth Huddlestone Lady Harewood 1450-1526 (60). Tudor Period. Tudor Livery Collar. Dogs Head Crest. She wearing a simple headdress with veil falling low on the shoulders. The carving somewhat reminiscent of Alice Chaucer's. Monument in Ewelme,Oxfordshire.

Garter and Inter-twined Knots Collar

In 1527 Hans Holbein The Younger Painter 1497-1543 (30). Portrait of Henry Guildford 1489-1532 (38) wearing the Garter and Inter-twined Knots Collar with St George Pendant. Standing three-quarter length, richly dressed in velvet, fur and cloth-of-gold. Holbein has meticulously shown the varied texture of his cloth-of-gold double which is woven into a pomegranate pattern with a variety of different weaves including loops of gold thread. Similarly, he has carefully articulated the band of black satin running down Guildford’s arm against the richer black of the velvet of his sleeve. A lavish use of both shell-gold paint and gold leaf (which has been used to emulate the highlights of the gold thread in the material) emphasises the luxuriousness of the sitter’s dress and his high status. In his right-hand he holds the Comptroller of the Household Staff of Office.

In 1527 Hans Holbein The Younger Painter 1497-1543 (30). Portrait of Henry Guildford 1489-1532 (38) wearing the Garter and Inter-twined Knots Collar with St George Pendant. Standing three-quarter length, richly dressed in velvet, fur and cloth-of-gold. Holbein has meticulously shown the varied texture of his cloth-of-gold double which is woven into a pomegranate pattern with a variety of different weaves including loops of gold thread. Similarly, he has carefully articulated the band of black satin running down Guildford’s arm against the richer black of the velvet of his sleeve. A lavish use of both shell-gold paint and gold leaf (which has been used to emulate the highlights of the gold thread in the material) emphasises the luxuriousness of the sitter’s dress and his high status. In his right-hand he holds the Comptroller of the Household Staff of Office.

Garter Collar

In 1546 Unknown Artist. Italian. Portrait of Henry Howard 1516-1547 (30) wearing his Garter Collar and Leg Garter. His right , his left .

In 1546 Unknown Artist. Italian. Portrait of Henry Howard 1516-1547 (30) wearing his Garter Collar and Leg Garter. His right , his left .

In 1559 Hans Eworth Painter 1520-1574 (39). Portrait of Anthony Browne 1st Viscount Montague 1528-1592 (30) wearing a Garter Collar and St George Pendant.

In 1573 Unknown Artist. Portrait of Henry Sidney KG 1529-1586 (44) wearing his Garter Collar.

In 1573 Unknown Artist. Portrait of Henry Sidney KG 1529-1586 (44) wearing his Garter Collar.

Around 1575 Unknown Artist. Portrait of Robert Dudley 1st Earl of Leicester 1532-1588 (42) wearing his Garter Collar.

Around 1575 Unknown Artist. Portrait of Robert Dudley 1st Earl of Leicester 1532-1588 (42) wearing his Garter Collar.

Around 1576 Unknown Artist. Portrait of William Paulet 1st Marquess Winchester 1483-1572 wearing his Garter Collar and Lord Treasurer Staff of Office.

Around 1576 Unknown Artist. Portrait of William Paulet 1st Marquess Winchester 1483-1572 wearing his Garter Collar and Lord Treasurer Staff of Office.

Around 1580 based on a work of 1565.Unknown Artist. Portrait of Robert Radclyffe 5th Earl of Sussex 1573-1629 (6) wearing his Garter Collar and holding the Lord Treasurer Staff of Office.

Around 1580 based on a work of 1565.Unknown Artist. Portrait of Robert Radclyffe 5th Earl of Sussex 1573-1629 (6) wearing his Garter Collar and holding the Lord Treasurer Staff of Office.

In 1583 Unknown Artist. Portrait of Edward Clinton 1st Earl Lincoln 1512-1585 (71) wearing his Garter Collar.

In 1583 Unknown Artist. Portrait of Edward Clinton 1st Earl Lincoln 1512-1585 (71) wearing his Garter Collar.

Around 1605 John Critz Painter 1551-1642 (54). Portrait of James I King England and Ireland VI King Scotland 1566-1625 (38) with Garter Collar and Leg Garter.

Around 1615 Unknown Artist. Posthumous portrait of Philip Herbert 4th Earl Pembroke, 1st Earl Montgomery 1584-1650 (30) wearing his Garter Robes and Garter Collar.

Around 1615 Unknown Artist. Posthumous portrait of Philip Herbert 4th Earl Pembroke, 1st Earl Montgomery 1584-1650 (30) wearing his Garter Robes and Garter Collar.

In 1619 Daniel Mijtens Painter 1590-1648 (29). Portrait of William Knollys 1st Earl Banbury 1544-1632 (75) wearing his Garter Collar and Leg Garter.

In 1621 Daniel Mijtens Painter 1590-1648 (31). Portrait of James I King England and Ireland VI King Scotland 1566-1625 (54) wearing his Garter Collar and Leg Garter.

In 1630 Daniel Mijtens Painter 1590-1648 (40). Portrait of Thomas Howard 21st Earl Arundel, 4th Earl Surrey, 1st Earl Norfolk 1585-1646 (44) and wearing his Garter Collar.

Around 1634 Anthony Van Dyck Painter 1599-1641 (34). Portrait of James Stewart 4th Duke Lennox wearing his Leg Garter and Garter Collar.

Around 1634 Anthony Van Dyck Painter 1599-1641 (34). Portrait of James Stewart 4th Duke Lennox wearing his Leg Garter and Garter Collar.

In 1634 Daniel Mijtens Painter 1590-1648 (44). Portrait of Philip Herbert 4th Earl Pembroke, 1st Earl Montgomery 1584-1650 (49) wearing his Leg Garter and Garter Collar.

Around 1661 Peter Lely Painter 1618-1680 (42). Portrait of Charles Stewart 6th Duke Lennox in his Garter Robes and Garter Collar.

Around 1661 Peter Lely Painter 1618-1680 (42). Portrait of Charles Stewart 6th Duke Lennox in his Garter Robes and Garter Collar.

Around 1662 Peter Lely Painter 1618-1680 (43). Portrait of Edward Montagu 1st Earl Sandwich 1625-1672 (36) in his Garter Robes and Garter Collar.

Around 1673 Peter Lely Painter 1618-1680 (54). Portrait of Charles II King Scotland in his Garter Robes and Garter Collar.

Around 1673 Peter Lely Painter 1618-1680 (54). Portrait of Charles II King Scotland in his Garter Robes and Garter Collar.

Around 1675 Peter Lely Painter 1618-1680 (56). Portrait of George Villiers 2nd Duke of Buckingham 1628-1687 (46) wearing his Garter Collar.

Around 1678 Peter Lely Painter 1618-1680 (59). Portrait of Charles II King Scotland in his Garter Robes and Garter Collar and Leg Garter.

Around 1678 Peter Lely Painter 1618-1680 (59). Portrait of Charles II King Scotland in his Garter Robes and Garter Collar and Leg Garter.

Around 1680 Willem Wissing Painter 1656-1687 (24). Portrait of William III King England, Scotland and Ireland 1650-1702 (29) wearing his Garter Collar.

Around 1680 Willem Wissing Painter 1656-1687 (24). Portrait of William III King England, Scotland and Ireland 1650-1702 (29) wearing his Garter Collar.

Around 1686 Willem Wissing Painter 1656-1687 (30). Portrait of Lawrence Hyde 1st Earl Rochester 1642-1711 (43) wearing his Garter Robes including the Garter Collar and holding his white Lord Treasurer Staff of Office.

Garter worn on the Arm

Around 1840. Franz Xaver Winterhalter Painter 1805-1873 (34). Portrait of Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom 1819-1901 (20). Note the Garter worn on the Arm as worn by Ladies of the Garter.

Around 1840. Franz Xaver Winterhalter Painter 1805-1873 (34). Portrait of Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom 1819-1901 (20). Note the Garter worn on the Arm as worn by Ladies of the Garter.