Extracts from a Note Book by Sir R C Hoare.

This book, now in the County Library, at Devizes, takes, in part, the form of a diary of some of his excursions on the Wiltshire Downs. It does not appear to have been regularly kept, and notes of different years are entered without order, at opposite ends of the same book.

The extracts here given may be valuable as containing notices of antiquities which have since been destroyed or effaced by the progress of agriculture and railways. Many expressions occur showing the intense pleasure which the writer experienced in those rides on the Wiltshire Downs. To him they must have been particularly enjoyable, associated as they specially were in his case, with the history and remains of the ancient inhabitants.

"Sunday, 4 October [1807]. From Bath to Devizes in a chaise. From Devizes to Marlborough on horseback — came to the Roman road leading from Bath to Spinse or Speen, a little on this side Beckhampton Inn — followed it to Silbury Hill which it leaves a little to the left — from thence into the turnpike, and to Overton down, where the ridge is again very visible — this hill is covered with many large and fine tumuli. In the adjoining field visited the few remains now left of the celebrated stones called the Grey-Wethers, from whence Stonehenge dates its origin. One year will scarcely elapse before the traveller may justly exclaim ' Stat nominis umbra.' The larger masses are employed in building, and the smaller in mending the roads. The line of the Roman causeway is I think nearly certain to the top of the hill overlooking Fifield. Quere did it then cross the stream ? I think not— the ground being firmer on the side of the present turnpike though somewhat deviating from the direct line.

"Monday, 5 October [1807]. Sessions opened. Walked with Rev. Mr. Francis, of Mildenhall, to a spot where several remarkable Roman antiquities have been discovered. This field is situated just beyond the first milestone, on the left of the road to London — it is a pasture land and has produced many skeletons — and Roman coins are daily found by the labourers employed in digging and sifting gravel. The field is called St. Margaret's Mead. The Rev. Mr. Francis showed me a great many coins of Diocletian, Antoninus, and others, found here — also fragments of black and red glazed Roman pottery, a small brass key, another article with a grotesque head of an animal — hollow, like a spout — also an interment or sacrifice of the bones of a cock and a cat — the leg with the spur attached to it of the former, and the jaw and teeth of the latter. A most singular vessel was found there about the year 1807, and the mutilated fragments are still preserved by Mr. Francis, who procured an exact drawing to be made of it immediately after its discovery. It was made of thick oak wood ribbed with iron hoops, had two iron handles and plated with thin brass on which are embossed various devices. An iron hollow bar goes across the two uprights A and B — it contained some burnt human bones, which seem to prove its having been formerly appropriated to sepulchral uses. Near it was found a perfect and beautiful little cup similar in design to the one lately discovered near Boreham, Warminster, and given by Mr. Cunnington to Miss Bennet, of that place — it varies however in having six instead of four indentations, and has a mixture of red with the black, resembling bronze Mr. Francis has kindly promised to send me more particular accounts in writing of the time when these discoveries were made. He has had a plan made of the grounds, one of which is called "Barrow Field" from a tumulus he remembered once there.

"Marlborough common — a little way distant from the town on the northern side — a square ancient earthwork with an entrance on the side of it. A place called Cold Harbour near it. Mildenhall, about a mile-and-a-half east of Marlborough — a small square work on the east side of the Church, in a meadow, on a gentle eminence, three sides distinguishable — one corner rounded— has a Romanish appearance, and from its vicinity to the river, the station of Cunetio, and the intersection of the two Roman roads, one from Bath to Spene, two from Winchester to Cirencester — might have been a small post to guard the ford or bridge of the Kennet — I add bridge because in my former notes I observed the probable remains of such in the bed of the river. Numerous Roman coins have been found at Mildenhall, in Mr. Francis's garden , churchyard, &c, &c. The tumulus has been dug into for stone, but I do not think it has ever been investigated, or its interment injured. The parish church has round arches springing from Saxon capitals, but nothing either monumental or architectural worthy of note.

"Ramsbury. The venerable old stone turret of the Church has just undergone a complete yellow-washing, and in the eyes of its vulgar inhabitants is much beautified and improved. If conspicuousness is desirable this end is most completely obtained, for no object in the whole vale is so much so. Called on Mr. Meyrick, and rode, attended by his son, to Littlecott Park. The object of this second visit was to see the site of the celebrated Roman pavement found here. One person only could be found in the neighbourhood who recollected its discovery, which was about sixty years ago. His name is Watkins, He showed me the spot, and informed me that the pavement was broken up, but he did not know what became of it. On entering the park at the keeper's lodge, followed the line of trees and paling parallel with the river, and before I came to the house, some excavations and irregularities in the ground mark the foundations of ancient buildings, and the oblong square from whence the pavement was taken up still visible. On the hill A, opposite the villa, are several small mounds of earth, having very much the appearance of ancient tumuli.

"Visited the remains of the Roman road leading out of the station of Cunetio at Folly Farm towards Spince, which is visible first in a ploughed field on the brow of the hill looking over the vale of Kennet, and afterwards on Stinchcomb Hill, on a common or down — the last traces hitherto known of it.

"Friday, 9 October [1807]. Fine and mild day. From Marlborough to Everley in a chaise, where I met my "Magnus Apollo," Mr. Cunnington. Mounted my horse and rode with him thus— see large map of Wilts. To the right between East and West Everley, a group of three barrows, viz., a finely formed Druid barrow between two bowl-shaped. A little beyond them on the declivity of a hill is a square earthen work, very perfect on three sides, and corners apparently rounded. In a northerly direction is a very interesting group of eight tumuli — very rude and possessing some novelty in their forms— particularly that of a long barrow within a circle. To the west of these, and a little on the left of the track leading to Pewsey, are two circles connected with each other by a ditch or hollow way [Map]. (The blackness of the soil, and the irregularity of the ground give me good reason to suppose that on digging I shall find the site of a British settlement here.) Turned off to the right, and skirted the ridge of hills, enjoying a most enchanting view of the richly wooded and cultivated vale beneath, terminated by the abrupt and bold Martinshall. On the declivity of the down see an immense irregular long barrow, called vulgarly the Giant's Grave [Map]. Beyond this tumulus and between it and Milton Farm-house, we evidently found the site of British habitations, and picked up a great deal of pottery. From hence crossed over to Easton Hill, where we discovered irregular earthen works, and excavations denoting ancient habitation. Returned to Milton Hill — a group of five tumuli very near each other, and another on the declivity of the hill [Map]. In our way back to Everley saw several others detached, but no earthen works or excavations exciting curiosity.

"A most interesting ride, full of novelty and information.

"The manoeuvres of the day being interrupted by the heavy fall of earth, I left Marden and ascended the chalk hills. The eye is caught by the remains of an ancient earthen work on the summit of the hill overlooking this fine vale. It is called Broadbury, Brodbury, &c. , &c. It has been much mutilated by chalk pits. It is single ditched — similar square excavations (containing fragments of the oldest pottery) to those on Cotley Hill, near Warminster, have been found here.

"These works are situated very near the great Ridge- way — see my map of Wilts. Turned off on the left, and continued my ride along it to Casterley Camp [Map]. Casterley much changed in its appearance, having been lately ploughed up. Nunc seges est ubi Troja fuit [Now the harvest is where Troy was]. Thence crossed the vale of Avon at Chisenbury, once the site of a priory. My trackway led me straight to the perfect little square work called Sidbury [Map]. Great British excavations in its neighbourhood. Saw on my right the beautiful twin barrows — before drawn and noticed. One remains to be opened. 'Par nobile fratrum [A noble pair of brothers].' Returned to Everley gratified and benefitted, as usual, by my ride amongst the Britons.

"Barrows Opened by Mr. Cunnington near Beckhampton, 1804.

"A group of barrows near Shepherds Shore [Map]. Mr. C. opened the smallest, which contained a cist with burnt bones and a jet ornament, a bone arrow-head, a pin, &c.

"Farther to the north-west, and under Morgan's Hill, is a group of four barrows, nearly in a line; but lower down the vale are several others. Opened the second from the hill — of the Druid kind — five feet in elevation — burnt bones and a piece of slate, and a neat little urn, also several long amber beads, and two ivory or bone beads. Opened a tumulus lower down — a large rude black urn with burnt bones.

"A little way from the above is a fine bell-shaped barrow — also one of the circular pond-shaped and a Druid barrow, the latter of which had a skeleton, and a small rude urn of burnt bones inverted over the skull beneath the primary interment, with two oblong beads.

"Opened eight or nine more, in the group near the Roman road ascending Oldbury Hill, but found nothing new.

"Oblong enclosure on declivity of hill pending to Old Shepherds Shore — small earthen work within, towards the lower end. The west side is the most perfect part of the work.

"Saturday, 3 October, 1809. Hot sultry day. Drove to Frome, and rode from thence to Chatley, where I breakfasted with my friend Mr. Meade. Accompanied him to Wellow [Map], where on the opposite side of the river, in a large common field, of arable land called the Hayes, Colonel Leigh, of Combe Hay, is now uncovering the pavements and foundations of a Roman villa. A prior discovery had been made of it in 1737, and three engravings made, of three different pavements, by the Antiquarian Society, and published in their "Vetusta Monumenta" Of these two are at present uncovered. The large one is sadly mutilated, but sufficient both of the centre and border is left to show that the drawing made in 1737 is notoriously incorrect. So much so, that were it not for the peacock's tail in the centre, remaining, we might almost suppose it was not the pavement originally engraven. The second sized floor is much more correct. The third (a narrow oblong) has not been yet discovered— unless it should prove to be the slip, adjoining the peacock apartment— but I can hardly suppose that the artist eould have carried his incorrectness so far, when he made the design of it, though, if only the centre pattern of this slip was uncovered, it is possible such an error might have been made. Accurate tracings are now making of the different pavements by the Rev. Mr. Skinner, of Camerton.

"A coin of Alectus, lately found, throws some light on the date of this villa.

"Monday, 13 June, 1814. Fine day. From Swindon to Broad Blunsdon Camp. Pass through village of Blunsdon, enter camp by a lane south— another entrance opposite, to north, from whence there are marks of a raised causeway, descending from the camp and apparently following the line of some wide hedges, across several fields. Eamparts of moderate height, wide space between them. Natural slope of the ground forms the boundary towards the north. Area is of rich meadow. Exceeding fine view. Camp situate on a point of hill looking north over a great extent of country, and across N.W. into Gloucestershire. See Cricklade, Cirencester, and numerous other villages. Dined at Highworth— Inn, King William and Queen Mary— Darby, landlord, returned to Marlbro' 14th.

"Thursday, 16 June— Stormy— Gala day at Marlbro'— pretty sight— one long table from the Market House to S. Peter's Church, nearly half-a-mile— 37 tables, and 36 partakers of conviviality at each. Town gayly dressed out with laurel and illuminated at night. 1333 persons.

June 29 [1814]. Examined the British village near Glory ann. In the first trial the pickaxe struck upon a quern with the hole in it— pottery of various sorts - stags' horns— animals bones, &e,"