Europe, British Isles, North-Central England, Staffordshire, Ilam [Map]

Ilam, Staffordshire is in Staffordshire.

The River Manifold rises on Axe Edge Moor [Map] after which it travels broadly south past Longnor, Saffordshire [Map], Hulme End [Map], Ecton, Staffordshire [Map], Thor's Cave [Map], Beeston Tor, Staffordshire [Map] and Ilam, Staffordshire [Map] at which it joins the River Dove.

Europe, British Isles, North-Central England, Staffordshire, Ilam, Beechenhill [Map]

Castern. On the afternoons of the 18th and 19th of July, we opened a barrow between Bitchin Hill [Map] and Castern [Map], eighteen yards diameter, and only about eighteen inches high, a great deal of the top having been removed for the sake of the stone. On the first day we removed a considerable area from the centre towards the south-east, the whole of which was strewed with human and animal bones, and other trifling remains common in most barrows. Amongst them was the decayed skeleton of a young person. The next day we continued our excavation in an opposite direction, where, about two yards from the middle of the barrow, was an oval grave, seven feet long by 3½ feet wide, cut in the rock to the depth of about two feet. It was filled with earth and stones, covering a large skeleton lying at the bottom, on its lefl side, in the usual contracted posture, with the head to the north. Near the shouders was a large and highly-polished stud, of jet or coal, 1¾ inches diameter, with two oblique holes meeting at an angle behind. A small piece of calcined flint was also found near the same place.

The femur measures nineteen inches. In the grave were many rats' bones, and above it were the remains of a young person, with bits of earthenware and burnt flints.

Bitchin Hill. On the 4th and 6th of June we re-opened a barrow [Beechen Hill Barrow 1 [Map] or Beechen Hill Barrow 2 [Map]] at Bitchin Hill Harbour [Map], which had been partially excavated on the 8th of July, 1845. The present operations were directed to the south-east side, where, at the depth of about a foot from the surface, we found the contracted skeleton of a young person, lying on its right side^ and having a small vase, 6½ inches high simply ornamented, standing upright at the feet — a very imusual position in this part of the country, as the vessels are almost always placed near the upper part of the person. The vase was guarded by a flat stone, a foot square, set up by its side. A similar stone was set on edge by the skeleton, which was embedded in rats' bones, and was much decayed. About a handful of burnt bones was found at no great distance from it. More to the east we found the skeleton of an adult^ wanting the head, although the bones had not been disturbed; it lay in the usual contracted posture, with the shoulders towards the head of the other skeleton, and was accompanied by a boar's tusk of small size only. Amongst other animal remains observed in the barrow were bones of the polecat (Mustela Putorius, Linn.). It will be remarked that headless skeletons are not very unusual in tumuli in this part of England.

Europe, British Isles, North-Central England, Staffordshire, Ilam, Beechenhill, Beechen Hill Barrow 1 [Map]

Beechen Hill Barrow 1 is also in Peak District Bronze Age Barrows.

Thomas Bateman 1845. On an elevated piece of ground, about midway between Wetton and Ilam, Staffordshire, known by the not very euphonious name of "Bitchinhill Harbour," [Note. Beechenhill [Map]] stand two small barrows, situated about three hundred yards apart, both of which were opened on the 8th of July, 1845. The one nearest the road [Possibly Beechen Hill Barrow 1 [Map]] was first explored, without much success, as it proved to have been rifled of its contents at some former period; still a square cist was visible in the centre into which the skeleton had been thrown by the former excavators; amongst the bones were found a few pieces of flint and part of a bone instrument, of no great interest. In another part of the tumulus a deposit of calcined bones was found; which, though lying close to the surface, had been overlooked by the previous explorers; amongst them were discovered three instruments of flint, of neat work-manship, and part of a stag's horn, which had been cut in various places, apparently by flint saws. In the course of the excavation a small fragment of earthenware (probably an urn) was picked up near the surface.

Bitchinhill. On the evenings of the 29th and 30th of May we made further search in the second barrow [Possibly Beechen Hill Barrow 1 [Map]] at Bitchinhill Harbour, previously opened on the 8th of July, 1845, and turned over much of the tumulus without finding any interment. The following notes were taken at the time. The East side was formed of stone mixed with earth, the rest of the mound being of earth only; the rocky floor was also lower on the East than elsewhere, and in this depression we found part of two Romano-British vessels, an iron awl 3½ inches long, which has had a wooden handle, and some charred wood. At the North-West side were numerous pieces of melted lead, some of which had run into forms like thick wire, probably from the heat of the funeral pile, as all the bones we noticed, as well as the pieces of flint, had been calcined. The lead was about a foot beneath the turf, and amongst the usual unimportant objects found in disturbed barrows were fragments of imperfectly baked pottery, pieces of stags' horns, pebbles, and a sharpening stone.

Bitchin Hill. On the 4th and 6th of June we re-opened a barrow [Beechen Hill Barrow 1 [Map] or Beechen Hill Barrow 2 [Map]] at Bitchin Hill Harbour [Map], which had been partially excavated on the 8th of July, 1845. The present operations were directed to the south-east side, where, at the depth of about a foot from the surface, we found the contracted skeleton of a young person, lying on its right side^ and having a small vase, 6½ inches high simply ornamented, standing upright at the feet — a very imusual position in this part of the country, as the vessels are almost always placed near the upper part of the person. The vase was guarded by a flat stone, a foot square, set up by its side. A similar stone was set on edge by the skeleton, which was embedded in rats' bones, and was much decayed. About a handful of burnt bones was found at no great distance from it. More to the east we found the skeleton of an adult^ wanting the head, although the bones had not been disturbed; it lay in the usual contracted posture, with the shoulders towards the head of the other skeleton, and was accompanied by a boar's tusk of small size only. Amongst other animal remains observed in the barrow were bones of the polecat (Mustela Putorius, Linn.). It will be remarked that headless skeletons are not very unusual in tumuli in this part of England.

Europe, British Isles, North-Central England, Staffordshire, Ilam, Beechenhill, Beechen Hill Barrow 2 [Map]

Beechen Hill Barrow 2 is also in Peak District Bronze Age Barrows.

Thomas Bateman 1845. The second barrow [Note. Possibly Beechen Hill Barrow 2 [Map]] is on a much higher site than the preceding; but like it had not escaped previous observation the whole of the upper portion having been removed; nothing, therefore, could be expected to remain in its original situation in the interior. The following articles were discovered in the course of digging: the remains of a coarse and rudely-ornamented urn, with its deposit of burnt bones, which lay about a foot beneath the surface; a third brass coin of Constantino the Great, of an extremely common type, and some pieces of stag's horn, were found close under the turf.

Bitchin Hill. On the 4th and 6th of June we re-opened a barrow [Beechen Hill Barrow 1 [Map] or Beechen Hill Barrow 2 [Map]] at Bitchin Hill Harbour [Map], which had been partially excavated on the 8th of July, 1845. The present operations were directed to the south-east side, where, at the depth of about a foot from the surface, we found the contracted skeleton of a young person, lying on its right side^ and having a small vase, 6½ inches high simply ornamented, standing upright at the feet — a very imusual position in this part of the country, as the vessels are almost always placed near the upper part of the person. The vase was guarded by a flat stone, a foot square, set up by its side. A similar stone was set on edge by the skeleton, which was embedded in rats' bones, and was much decayed. About a handful of burnt bones was found at no great distance from it. More to the east we found the skeleton of an adult^ wanting the head, although the bones had not been disturbed; it lay in the usual contracted posture, with the shoulders towards the head of the other skeleton, and was accompanied by a boar's tusk of small size only. Amongst other animal remains observed in the barrow were bones of the polecat (Mustela Putorius, Linn.). It will be remarked that headless skeletons are not very unusual in tumuli in this part of England.

Europe, British Isles, North-Central England, Staffordshire, Ilam, Bunster Hill Barrow [Map]

Bunster Hill Barrow is also in Peak District Bronze Age Barrows.

Bunster. 6th of June, we opened a barrow [Bunster Hill Barrow [Map]] in a plantation on the brow of Bunster Hill, by the side of Dovedale; it was fourteen yards diameter, and three feet high, composed of earth with but few stones, and was completely honeycombed by rabbit burrows. The only interment was a full-grown skeleton laid on the natural surface, South of the centre, on the left side, with the knees drawn up, and the head to the outside of the mound; the femur measures seventeen inches, and the skull exhibits a frontal suture, although it would appear to be that of a person in middle life. Close to the head lay a small arrow head, and some chippings of flint, two larger pieces lying nearer the surface; just above the feet was a large flat stone, beneath which were a few pieces of burnt bone. We observed neither rats' bones nor the customary fragments of those of other animals in any part of the mound.

Bitchin Hill. On the 5th of June we examined a mound [Bunster Hill Barrow [Map]] on Bunster Hill, by Dovedale, which, from being raised on a natural prominence, is very conspicuous. Its actual diameter is twenty-five yards, the height two feet. A road has been cut through the north-east side, without, however, injuring the centre; yet we were unsuccessful in finding any interment, although we made five parallel trenches, each five yards long, through the principal part of the tumulus, without seeing more than a little charcoal about the middle.

Europe, British Isles, North-Central England, Staffordshire, Ilam, Church of the Holy Cross [Map]

Church of the Holy Cross, Ilam [Map]. Monument to George Newell.

Church of the Holy Cross, Ilam [Map]. Font with images representing Life of St Bertand.

Church of the Holy Cross, Ilam [Map]. Monument to St Betram.

Church of the Holy Cross, Ilam [Map]. Exterior.

After 1653. Church of the Holy Cross, Ilam [Map]. Monument to Robert Meverell and Elizabeth Fleming. Elizabethan Period.

Robert Meverell: On 05 Feb 1628 he died. Before 05 Aug 1628 he and Elizabeth Fleming were married.

Elizabeth Fleming: she was born to Thomas Fleming. On 05 Aug 1628 she died.

After 1653. Church of the Holy Cross, Ilam [Map]. Monument to Elizabeth Meverell Countess Ardglass. Elizabethan Period.

After 29 Jul 1816. Church of the Holy Cross, Ilam [Map]. Monument to David Pike Watts (deceased). Sculpted by Francis Leggatt Chantrey (age 35).

David Pike Watts: On 29 Jan 1754 he was born. In 1809 David Pike Watts purchased Ilam Hall, Staffordshire from the Port family. On 29 Jul 1816 he died. His daughter Mary Watts and her husband Jesse Watts-Russell inherited Ilam Hall, Staffordshire.

Memorials of Francis Chantrey RA in Hallamshire and Elsewhere Part V London Life and Works. To this period belongs the execution of the celebrated monument-one of the largest of its class in England - of David Pike Watts [Map], Esq., now in a chapel erected for its reception in the church [Map] adjoining Ilam Hall, near Dovedale. In this fine work of art, the venerable man is represented "on his bed of death, from which he has raised himself by a final effort of expiring nature, to perform the last solemn act of a long and virtuous life: his only daughter- [ Mrs. Watts Russell (age 27) ] -and her children, all that were dearest to him in life, surround his couch, and bend at his side, as they receive from his lips the benedictions of a dying parent, when the last half-uttered farewell falters upon them."

How did that sculptured group command Our wonder, which hath ravish'd thousand eyes: The kneeling mother, and the soft surprise Of the three little ones that near her stand: ' Than this - thy genius, Chantrey (age 37)! scarce could rise Higher, with trophies fresh from Nature won; Art, how transcendent, when such power is given, To fix expression in the Parian stone, Which turns rapt thought towards holiness and heaven! "

Europe, British Isles, North-Central England, Staffordshire, Ilam, Hazelton Barrow [Map]

Hazelton Barrow is also in Peak District Bronze Age Barrows.

Ilam. On the 26th and 30th of May we opened a barrow [Hazelton Barrow [Map]] in the midst of a plantation on the top of Hazleton Hill, above Inkley Wood, at the back of Ilam Hall. It is a flat barrow, with a level summit 20 yards diameter, and varying from a foot to 18 inches in thickness, according to the inequality of the ground on which it stands, chiefly composed of earth, except round the edge, and where interment had taken place. The first discovery was at the West side, where a grave 6 feet long by 2 wide, had been cut 18 inches deep into the rock, then surrounded by flat stones placed on edge, and lastly, divided into two equal compartments by the same means. In one division was a deposit of calcined human bones, accompanied by two inferior arrow points of flint, and a broken pebble, also burned. The other contained wood ashes, earth which had undergone the action of fire, and a few bits of bone. From the appearance of the place, it is likely that the grave was first used as the place of cremations, and afterwards arranged as we found It, in order to hold the collected remains more compactly. A few feet from this deposit, and about 8 yards from the centre, we found a plain urn of thin pottery, about 7 inches high and 5 diameter, inverted over a few burnt bones which lay upon a flat stone - this very small cinerary um was broken by a tree having been planted above it. Eight yards from the middle, towards the South, in a depression of the floor, was a flat upright stone, by the side of which were some small pieces of a coarse urn, black ashes, burnt earth, a fine circular instrument, and numerous pieces of calcined flint: many large stones had been used in this part of the mound. Eight yards from the centre, towards the North-West, was a very similar deposit in a depression of the rock, surrounded by large stones; the articles were, a few calcined bones, a fine round instrument, and chippings of flint, and a piece of lead, either native or molten, weighing more than 3½ ounces.

Many more flints, including four more circular instruments, numerous pebbles, and a piece of iron ore, were scattered through the central part of the barrow, where not a trace of imburnt bone was found from first to last.

Europe, British Isles, North-Central England, Staffordshire, Ilam Hall

In 1809 David Pike Watts (age 54) purchased Ilam Hall, Staffordshire from the Port family.

On 29 Jul 1816 David Pike Watts (age 62) died. His daughter Mary Watts (age 24) and her husband Jesse Watts-Russell (age 30) inherited Ilam Hall, Staffordshire.

In 1821 Jesse Watts-Russell (age 34) commissioned James Trubshaw to build a Ilam Hall, Staffordshire to designs by John Shaw. Construction was completed in 1826.

On 28 Mar 1875 Jesse Watts-Russell (age 88) died. He left Ilam Hall, Staffordshire, which he had had rebuilt 'in the Gothic style' in the 1820s, and which Dyott deemed 'most magnificent' and 'splendidly furnished', together with estates in Derbyshire and Northamptonshire, to his eldest son, Jesse David Watts-Russll (age 63).

Around 1935 Ilam Hall, Staffordshire had been sold for demolition. The demolition was well advanced when Sir Robert McDougal bought it for the National Trust, on the understanding that the remaining parts (the entrance porch and hall, the Great Hall and the service wing) be used as an International Youth Hostel.

Europe, British Isles, North-Central England, Staffordshire, Ilam Tops Low [Map]

Ilam Tops Low is also in Peak District Bronze Age Barrows.

Thomas Bateman 1845. The 12th of July, 1845, was devoted to the examination of a very large barrow [Map] [Note. Probably Ilam Tops Low [Map]] upon Ilam Moor, Staffordshire, which was found to be composed of alternate layers of earth and loose stones, some of considerable magnitude; these strata were clearly defined, there being no admixture of stone with the earthy layers, or of earth with the stony ones. At a distance of two yards from the centre, the cist, or vault, over which the mound had been originally piled, was discovered; it was excavated in a square form, about three feet deep in the solid rock, and was covered by several large blocks of stone, laid over the sides of the cist, the ends being raised, and meeting together so as to form a kind of cyclopean arch over the vault; these stones being removed, the cist was found to be filled with stones, amongst which were found the skull of a child, and a few scattered bones of a person of mature age; the floor of the cist was covered with a layer of charcoal, at least two inches in thickness, apparently produced from the combustion of oak timber; upon this stratum lay the head of a bull, un-burnt, and various other bones of the same animal, which were partially charred; near these, but not quite so low down, were the remains of two urns, one rudely, the other very neatly ornamented; a small brass pin pointed at each end; and a few bones of deer and dogs. Precisely in the centre of the tumulus, at about a yard from the surface, lay the skeleton of a dog, with which was a small chipping of flint; with this exception, nothing more was discovered in this very remarkable barrow, although no pains were spared in removing a large area of the artificial soil, until the rock came to view, upon which the whole fabric was raised. A somewhat similar instance of the discovery of a bulls head in a sepulchral cist is recorded as having been made in 1826 upon one of the cliffs at the bay of Worthbarrow, Dorsetshire, a place famed as the greatest depository in England for the well-known "Kimmeridge coal money" (See Miles's History of the Kimmeridge Coal Money, page 41.)